Windscreen press studs

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longo90
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Windscreen press studs

Post by longo90 » Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:33

Hi everyone,

Been a while since I've posted. I never got a replay from ron about a hood for my 1993 Cagiva moke :( I tried several times but to no avail.

So! I'm trying to get one made locally. I still have the original hood. The difference is that I want to get one done from the windscreen to the rear bar of the roll cage, i.e. without the rear window area. Has anyone tried this before? or have any reason why it would not work?

The main issue I'm dealing with is the windscreen bar attachment. The original hood used a steel bar to clip onto the top of the windscreen. Ideally, I want to replace it with press studs but I don't want to drill through the windscreen itself. Does anyone know what size press studs I should use to avoid this happening?

Cheers,
Jake

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:33

Earliest Mokes have "Lift the dot" type fasteners along the 'screen top rail rather than press studs. These can be either the screw in type or the ones with a plate on the bottom that fastens with two pop rivets. Mine's got the latter. Either way there are two extra long ones positioned part way along the top rail that hold the frame straps.
Just be sure that when (if) you are drilling the top rail for the rivets you don't drill near the glass edge or you'll be looking for a new windscreen too :shock:
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Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:34

Oh, and I forgot to mention. Mark Peacock keeps them in stock in the club spares department
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Tim
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by Tim » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:14

If you're only planning a simple roof, consider sail track (its got other names). Its a sort of slotted aluminium extrusion designed to hold things like awnings and banners. The roof needs a piece of rope or cord sewn into the leading edge, then the whole lot slides into the track from the side. It holds it very evenly and gives a nice watertight seal, unlike lift the dots. You can only really use it if the roof can be slid in from the side though.

Image

Tim
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longo90
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by longo90 » Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:10

Thanks for the suggestions :)

The hood does not necessarily need to be water tight. I live in Malta and mostly use it in summer so very little chance of rain. The thing which is getting me at the moment is where to drill holes for the 'lift the dot' or press studs.

Looking at the windscreen on its own, it appears to go all the way to the top of the bar which makes it impossible to stick anything in there. I could use the original hood bar which sits over the top but that still doesn't give me much wiggle room.

Has anyone got any advice on where exactly to drill holes for the studs?

Cheers,
Jake

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:12

The windscreen glass sits in rubber channeling (a bit like the stuff used for the door glass on minis) so the glass, if original, shouldn't go to the top of the frame. Plus the glass is thinner than the frame so there's room for manuever there!
If in doubt (fear) you could always remove the glass, it's a pretty simple operation
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Dean
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by Dean » Fri Jul 27, 2012 8:13

The only safe way to drill the holes is to remove the glass as, you rightly point out, the glass goes nearly all the way to the bottom (top?) of the channel. M-Parts and Runamoke both use press studs on the front of their replacement Portuguese Hoods as the original metal bar approach is unpopular for many reasons. You can see a small picture of the M-Parts hood on their website.
I can't see why your required design wouldn't work. Many Mokers use that approach over here in Oz due to the warmer climate. They call them Bikini Tops.
Dean

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fistral fig
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Re: Windscreen press studs

Post by fistral fig » Sat Jul 28, 2012 9:40

Drilling holes can be made safer by putting a stop on the drill bit leaving just a couple of mm sticking out, either drill through a piece of wood or use a drill that has drilled out plenty of rivets and leave the heads on the drill, I keep one drill bit in both 1/8 and 3/16 sizes for this job.......FF

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