Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

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chris naish
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Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2008 18:11
Location: Hove,actually.

Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by chris naish » Tue Oct 16, 2018 18:17

Hi All
I've an Aussie that comes in to my workshop, which is missing the bracket that bolts to the thermostat housing area, and the actual stabiliser bar. The bracket that bolts on the body is there, I know I've probably more chance of getting hen's teeth........But I've gotta try!
Regards
Chris.
Chris Naish.

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Tim
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Tim » Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:14

I thought that was a standard Mini part used on all rod-change minis, but my parts manual shows them having an Australian Part Numbers, so maybe it was an Aussie only thing? The bar is the same dog-bone as the one above the clutch housing. There are two variants for the bracket that bolts tot he thermostat, one for 1275s and one for 998s.

AYK2076 is for 998s
https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... ady-bar-4/

AYE2006 for 1275s
http://minisport.com.au/radiator-staybi ... -1275-head

AYG2298 dog-bone with a bend to clear the breather canister on the tappet chest cover of 998s
https://minikingdomonline.com.au/produc ... end-2hand/

I once cut and modified a 998 one to fit a 1275 and it worked quite well, but currently I have an "ulitmate engine steady" type of thing.

Tim
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Dean
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Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Dean » Wed Oct 17, 2018 8:17

Hi Chris,
The bulkhead bracket tends to bend on those so, like Tim, I replaced mine with an ultimate steady which I got from Mini Spares.
Dean

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chris naish
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Joined: Wed Jun 11, 2008 18:11
Location: Hove,actually.

Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by chris naish » Wed Oct 17, 2018 9:37

Thanks Chaps!...I knew the answer was out there....ultimate steady it is then!
Cheers
Chris.
Chris Naish.

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Thu Oct 18, 2018 5:00

I've got to say, that given the choice, I'd much rather use the Aussie mounting method. It's a lot easier to fit than the aftermarket type steady bars
At least can add up

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Tim
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Location: Hobart, Tasmania, Australia

Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Tim » Thu Oct 18, 2018 5:37

Yeah the one I have is a bit of a pain to fit and and it's really ugly to look at. I think mine came from Minisport and the bar is just a section of threaded rod. They seem to be plated now but mine is painted black.

Over the years I've noticed quite few Mokes where the original steady bar has damaged the section of the firewall where it bolts on. Where it attaches is over the two big holes where the master cylinders mount on LHD cars. I've had to weld up a couple where fatigue has made a section break out between the holes. I think its probably really important that the bit that mounts to the firewall is large, to spread the load, and is bolted up tightly so that it can't move around and flog out the material.

Tim
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chris naish
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Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by chris naish » Thu Oct 18, 2018 16:39

Interesting point Tim.
My Aussie split the bulkhead...I heard some creaking and on investigating found the bracket was bolted to it with just a normal nut underneath in the footwell, with not even a washer! Thought it was just mine that had suffered, but splits welded, and washers used with nylock nuts.....problem solved!
Regards
Chris.
Chris Naish.

Nigel(no top)Sykes
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Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Nigel(no top)Sykes » Fri Oct 19, 2018 5:02

The cracking could well be due to the factory bracket being taller than the aftermarket ones thereby exerting more leverage on the body. What is better than washers is the cut off top of an old pedal box, spreads the load.
At least can add up

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Halfpint
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Location: North East Victoria. Australia

Re: Aussie stabiliser bar and bracket

Post by Halfpint » Fri Oct 19, 2018 21:14

Hi,
Both mine needed repairing here also.
When I welded them up, I had a piece brass flat bar clamped under neath so the weld wouldnt leave any excess raised bits on the inside of the bulkhead, would be really hard to grind flat again.
I made a copy of the top plate from 3mm sheet metal and put it on the inside of the bulkhead as a sandwich plate.
As already said, very important the bolts remain tight.
HP

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