clutch adjustment

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Wally2
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clutch adjustment

Post by Wally2 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:26

Hi all,
went to a local classic car show yesterday only to find when I got there that I couldnt disengage the clutch so had to roll into the show and be pushed into place! This happened last year as I was taking the Moke in for MOT, the garage reported no problem with the clutch but they had reset it.
Nothing seemed to be amiss, the slave cylinder seemed to be doing its thing ok. Another mini owner suggested that the gap on the arm to the adjusting screw seemed large, so we adjusted it closer. This worked and I got the clutch back.
When I got home I checked the manual which said for early cars (minis) the gap should be 60 thou but if I set this I cannot disengage, so I set it at 20 thou (later cars) and it seemed ok. I also checked the setting of the large 15/16th overthrow nuts and set them as per the manual i.e. hold the pedal down run the nut up to the end plate and then up another flat. tried the clutch - no disengagement! so I kept backing the nuts off a little at a time until I could get the clutch to work. Looking on the internet I came across numerous bits of advice on how to set the cltch ranging from as per the book to this one
http://www.7ent.com/pages/articles-tech ... tment.html
Which advises setting the gap between the housing and the nut static to 1/8th inch. This is about twice what my gap is at the moment, so I'II try reseting it to 1/8" and see what happens.
Anyone out there any advice?
I was told when I bought the Moke that a new clutch was fitted just prior to me buying it, but you never know, I've done about 3500 miles since then so if it is new then the clutch should be ok. Only other things I can check are the mechnical bits for wear as per the article.
Cheers
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

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Tim
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Tim » Mon Jun 30, 2014 12:07

Its pretty common. There's not much spare throw in the system to start with so it doesn't take a lot of wear to use it all up.

You really only need a tiny bit of clearance at the adjusting screw, just so that the throwout bearing isn't running on the pressure plate. You can back the big nut right off, its there to protect the thrust bearings from overthrow, and obviously that's not a problem.

If that still doesn't help then you probably need to start replacing worn parts.

Tim
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Wally2
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Wally2 » Mon Jun 30, 2014 15:28

Hi Tim,
Just took the arm and bits out. There is a flat on the ball at the end, slight wear in both clevis pins and the hole in the spring mount at the top of the arm is nearly through, so I've just ordered some new ones from Sommerfords. As you say little bits of wear all over adds up to lots of play, so hopefully the new bits will cure the problem. Will let you know.
Cheers
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

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Tim
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Tim » Mon Jun 30, 2014 19:43

That should help a lot.

Tim
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j Beeton
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Joined: Sun Nov 24, 2013 0:40

Re: clutch adjustment

Post by j Beeton » Mon Jun 30, 2014 22:34

Hi Chris, spookily I have just got the same problem with my Cooper S, I changed the thrust bearing a few weeks ago as it was getting noisy, and then after putting everything together I could not get the Clutch adjusted correctly, on local proper expert advice I dismantled all , changed the clutch plate, fitted new arm, Clevis pin etc etc , after bunging everything together yet again, I adjusted exactly as per the manuals and still no clutch! I have very little pressure on the clutch pedal when depressing , I have bled the slave in case , but still no joy, so have thrown the spanners down in a sulk and called my local guru Mick the Man -who really does know everything that is worth knowing on anything BMC/Mg . he will come over later this week and sort out for sure , so if it helps I will let you know what the resolution was. ...James.....
PS , my moke is still in bits and currently upside down , after spending weeks scraping off bl****dy under seal to prep up for blasting and some welding....... :D

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Wally2
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Wally2 » Tue Jul 01, 2014 6:47

Hi James,
Have you got a good return spring on the slave cylinder? I put a new one on a while ago, its a bugger to get on and off as its so strong (or I'm so weak!).
The clutch or no clutch seems to depend entirely on the adjustment of the stop screw half way up the arm, as Tim pointed out. I set mine at 20 thou as per the book and it was still engaging (just) right on the floor, so I've set it with almost no gap and can change gear ok now. Just hoping that the new bits make it even better.
Not long to get your Moke up and running for the IMM!!!! if not you will have to go in the Cooper (clutch permitting).
Keep up the good work (more pics please!)
Cheers
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

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Wally2
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Wally2 » Tue Jul 01, 2014 8:40

Hi James,
Re thinking what I put above and looking at the manual re operation of the clutch, if the two nuts on the release bearing shaft are adjusted too close to the housing then they can prevent full disengagement of the pressure plate. I adjusted mine as per the book and had problems, so I've backed them off to give 1/8" clearance static, in line with the article and Tim's advice to back them off. Mine seems ok now apart for still engaging near the floor. Will report back when I've relaced the arm and associated bits and pieces.
Chris
Chris
WEEMOKE
JUX180D

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Wally2
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Wally2 » Wed Jul 02, 2014 19:57

New bits arrived this morning from Sommerfords, went on no probs, clutch engages about 1/3rd way up now and not right on the floor, so much improved, thanks Tim. The new arm seems alot more beefy than the old one, the new spring holder at the top didnt fit to well so I fitted it over the old one, that seemed a better fit.
Image
Chris
Chris
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Tim
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Re: clutch adjustment

Post by Tim » Tue Jul 08, 2014 23:15

Looks good! Yes the arm was changed to a beefier one over the years. The spring holder bit on the end never seemed to be a proper fit, it just rattles around. I'm glad it helped.

Tim
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